Monday 10 February 2014

Week Four - One Grape, Two Grapes, Too Much Wine!!

Well it's been all go this week with the start of my 'volunteering' with one of the vineyards/wineries here in Marlborough....the Awatere Valley to be precise.  It was a short week to start (with Thursday being Waitangi Day here in NZ) but that was probably no bad thing to get me into the swing of things.

In the name of my education I now own a pair of steel toed work boots which I pass off remarkably well with my denim shorts, old grey tshirt and obviously my v expensive Tiffany's sunglasses; I get picked up at 6:45am in a ute and have a 45 minute drive to the office (please see photo below).



To date I have mainly been involved in bunch and berry counting to allow the yields to be estimated and forecast if either enough grapes are being produced or whether some have to be dropped ie cut off and left to rot...sounds bizarre but there are hefty fines imposed as a means of controlling the tonnes of grapes produced and thus impacting the price...a fatal error for Marlborough producers in 2008.  So what does bunch and berry counting involve...picking a sample of vines from each block of fruit, taking a bunch from a vine and literally popping off all the viable berries counting them as you go...bunch counting is picking a sample of random vines and counting the number of bunches on the vine. Simple, arguably mind numbing but surprisingly therapeutic and with a view out the office window like the one I have...who would get bored...



In addition to this I've helped fix some irrigation leaks (they let me loose with a blow torch) and entertaining a tour of Canadian wine enthusiasts on Day One welcoming them with the hongi (the traditional Maori welcome where you simultaneously touch nose and forehead with your guest)....being from Glasgow it was a close call to our own very particular renounced welcome...the Glasgow Kiss!!  Lastly I helped set up the stall for the Marlborough Wine and Food Festival which was on on Saturday.

The Marlborough Wine and Food Festival is the largest of the NZ wine festivals...a day in the sun enjoying all the wineries and local eateries have to offer whilst listening to music and hanging out with friends old and new....a great day out at the heart of a boozy, laughter and singing filled weekend.

So my observation of the week...I first came to Marlborough 15 years ago.  It was my initial introduction to wine, wineries, cellar door tours etc. In those days the many wineries which made up the region were independent mainly family affairs all finding their feet in a new global industry and heavily focused on introducing us to its now signature Sauvignon Blanc.  Today the world of Marlborough wine has changed beyond belief.  It accounts for $1bn of NZs $1.3bn total revenue from wine.  It stretches across the entire region where it used to be centred mainly around Blenheim.  It now relies on contract companies to provide the machinery and labour for all the hefty work that used to be done by the direct vineyard staff...effectively a co-operative is starting to exist between contractors, vineyards and wineries.  In addition investors are starting to buy the land with leaseback arrangements with the wine companies to free up capital.  A booming, evolving, corporate world...which I have to say takes some of the romance away.

And that's just the start...if global warming predictions are to be believed then in a few years temperatures in this part of the world will rise by 2 degrees.  Doesn't sound like much but this means that the land dedicated to vines will increase from 28,000 hectares to c50,000 hectares.  Those producing Sauvignon Blanc today will have to change to the grapes which need more heat....Pinot noir being an example.  The production of Sauvignon Blanc will move well down the valley to the areas which can't sustain it today.

In summary....the one saving grace of this industry is that grape growing needs the natural landscapes we all associate with it...hills, valleys, sea, rivers...if it didn't then this would be a concrete and stainless steel jungle which would devastate one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Next week...the Kiwis mix it all up!!

In this first week in Blenheim I...

...HUNG OUT at the Marlborough Wine and Food Festival (with friends old and new)...


...and with the friars of St Clair's winery



...WINED ON...(many but recommend) Tohu Pinot Gris and Riesling, Darling Moscato infused Sauvignon Blanc and Darling Gewurtztraminer and last but definitely not least (indeed our new best friend with chocolate brownie) Eureka 'Straw' Pinot Noir.....mmmmm yum...maybe I need to start an import business to allow me to bring these wines to you!!

...DINED ON...lunch at Wither Hills winery....Gareth won with Roast Pork Belly and Ginger Kumera Mash followed by Chocolate and Salted Caramel Delice

NEXT WEEK...the winery, the wines, the week in summary

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