Week Forty Four (Part II) - High and Dry
And so it was that we started our ascent to altitude in the second half of this week. I had thought we were doing this only in preparation for the treks which I found somewhat concerning that the focus of the trip was to be on the treks rather than every aspect of it. However it soon became apparent that the remainder of our trip is all spent at altitude therefore this was an important process to go through.Harder than getting to altitude Claire and I have also taken a vow not to drink any alcohol until we've finished our trek. It's been a long time coming and is also a bit of a scary prospect in terms of walking over four days, camping in the mountains etc with very little training. So we decided we owed it to ourselves to be as fit and healthy as we can be. Personally I think no wine with dinner or drinks after is more of a feat than the trek will be but hey ho. We will be high and we will be dry!!
We left Nasca on the night bus which was an adventure in itself and I think we were all glad that the curtains were closed and it was dark outside. Ten hours of being rolled from side to side, sudden braking and many bumps would suggest that it would have been a roller coaster ride if we'd all been awake and able to see.
We arrived in Arequipa at 8am and at 2480 meters above sea level. The air definitely was thinner but we all felt ok. And so our introduction to Arequipa started with an orientation tour of the city and a visit to the local market which was amazing. A very vibrant place with every stall under the sun (a bit like South Melbourne market but grittier).
We tried some local fruits at one of the stalls (don't ask me to name them) and then it was time for those of us who were brave enough to try frog juice. When in Rome and all that. So having agreed to try it and assuming frog juice was a euphuism we boldly rocked up to the stall and ordered a glass between many. WARNING turn away now if you're vegetarian or weak stomached. The first thing the woman did was present us with our live frog for approval. She proceeded then to smash it's head off the counter, skin it and put it in a pan to boil while putting all sorts of other concoctions in a liquidiser - just enough time for the frog to be boiled and added to the liquidiser. Then we had to drink it. I am honestly struggling to write this - it was warm and savoury in flavour and with bits in it. Let's just leave it at that.
The rest of the day was at our leisure which was nice just to have some unscheduled time to do your own thing and explore Arequipa. In the spirit of ying and yang, after the frog juice I had the best ice cream I think I have had in my life and I've had many. It was a very fudgy vanilla (like The Forum in Kilmarnock or Renatos in Ayr) with dried cherry and chocolate pieces. At least that's what it tasted of - I didn't understand the words and far be it from us to take the phrase book out with us!!
The next day (whichever it was cod quite frankly we're losing track) was our most challenging in terms of altitude. We were heading off to Chivay to spend the night and steadily climbing to get there. The day entailed climbing to 4910m spending 15 mins there to see how we all were then descending to 3600m for the rest of the day and into the next.
And so it was that we headed off armed with every local remedy for altitude sickness going. There are coca leaf sweeties, coca leaf oils to rub in your hands and inhale whenever you feel foggy, coca leaves themselves which look like bay leaves which you roll up with some sweet clay inside them and chew for ten mins or so and then the mata mista (tea to be drunk with four different herbs in it).
As we started our ascent our guide told us to start chewing on the coca leaves for ten mins. Not the most pleasant of tastes but if it is going to help whilst at altitude and to get us through our trek then suck it up - quite literally. After ten mins the side of your mouth you've been chewing on feels like you've had an injection at the dentist but given we were all fine on our climb then we stuck with it. Next we had our tea and an endless suck on the coca sweets
When we got to 4910m you could feel it. Even walking up three steps to the lookout had your heart racing and as for climbing three flights of stairs to our room when we reached Chivay had you pegging for breath (mind you that's not that unusual). Throughout the day we went llama and alpaca watching and had the chance to walk the swing bridge to some natural hot pools heated by the water flowing from the nearby volcanoes.
One of the group succumbed to a really bad headache and nausea and didn't make it out that night for our Peruvian meal and dancing show but the rest of us were fine.
Or at least until that night when I woke at 1:30 with a thumping headache and couldn't sleep for the rest of the night (which wasn't long as we had a 5am rise). Some coca leave chewing / gagging, anadin and anti nausea tablets soon sorted me out and we were on our way to watch for condors at colca canyon.
After two hours of sitting around waiting for the condors we gave up and went on a hike round the top of the canyon - a good strategy as one then graced us with its presence. So graceful despite being so huge.
We then started a long journey back to Arequipa for an early night (we'd done the overnight bus then a 7am rise and a 5am rise and were told on the way back it was another 5am rise on Saturday for our flight to Cusco).
So can you believe Claire and I were out for dinner in Friday night at 6:30pm, had coke zero with our meal and were home in bed reading by 8:15pm!! Startling I know.
Saturday we headed to Cusco and back to 3600m altitude - hopefully acclimatised. After a bit of an orientation of the city our day was our own until 7pm when we had to meet our Inca Trek guide for a briefing. To say we're all a bit nervous about what lies ahead is an understatement but we are all also desperate for some exercise which has been lacking up until now. We're not sure which concerns us most - altitude sickness, fitness to do the walk or the prospect of being way too cold at night (and it is cold at night even in the towns).
We set our worries aside for a couple of hours with a few of us set on some time out to enjoy the Autumn Series rugby games. The location was set - Paddys Bar - the highest 100% owned Irish Bar in the world sitting at 11,156ft above sea level. Unfortunately for Oli England had sold their rights to the highest bidder so there was no chance of him seeing the England game. We did however get a chance to etch the full Scotland game which was a great game I thought. Claire and I are however keeping it a secret that not only were we watching a rugby game without beer in hand but also a rugby game in an Irish pub with no drink in hand beyond pineapple juice and a cup of tea - a real worry but proof as to our resolve. Amazing how focused my cousin can become when she's in the zone.
This blog follows hot on the heels of my last one with the intention being I would post it just as we were starting the Inca Trail. Whilst we have yet to have our briefing this eve we do know we are only allowed 6kg of luggage and 3.5kg of that will be in sleeping bag and air bed weight. Roughly translated that means we need to pretty much wear what we're taking from Sunday to Thursday. One pair of trousers for five days - a couple of tops and thermals etc and that will be it. This will be very interesting. Needless to say we've stocked up on high energy snacks as well as coca leaves and clay, coca sweets, coca toffees etc. I'm suddenly feeling that my 6 mile a day walks (latterly on the flat) are not going to server well.
So with a sense of trepidation I sign off now in the hope that this is note last blog and that the next time you hear from me will be in about a week when we have three whole days in the one place to relax and unwind after our big challenge!!
Wish us luck
Whilst preparing for this leg of our trip we...
...HUNG OUT AT...our room for a succession of early nights...
...WINED ON...absolutely nothing - this will be the first and last time this blog makes such a comment...
...DINED ON...other than frog juice I tried alpaca for the first time - tasty enough but not outstanding. Given I felt somewht challenged about all the adventures food wise and beyond there was
One night this week where I settled for the comfort of spaghetti bolognese - nothing like mums though.
Either for the last time or until next week - take care, have a good one and wish us luck.
G
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